Choose a category...
Recent Posts | Before | During | After

 

 

Recent Posts

 

Were building a bridge


Day 2 was wet but bearable and the work pace furious again – with this troop we could scalp the site in a week. I have now noticed that using equipment is the principle joy. There is an antipathy for the spade, I didn’t see one of the village pick one up for a moment, or a hand saw.
Principle achievements were felling timber and clearing fallen trees. The afternoon we managed to ‘plant’ mushrooms (in logs) and build a new and rather substantial bridge. There was little time wasted on aesthetics, just practical decisions about longevity and usability.

Japanese cafe open!

いよいよこのイギリスでの活動のメインイベント「日本食レストラン」
ここでのメニューも前日までしっかりと話し合って準備された。午後12時にオープン!
「小さな町だし、あんまりお客さんは来ないだろう」と構えていたら、開店直後に満員!?\(°o°;)/ で、まだ盛りつけなんかも決めていなかったので焦った。でも光子さんとコミさん、他の村の皆さんはとても落ち着かれてました。
メニューは「天ざるセット」「峠定食(テイスティングセット)」の2つ。おそばセット、コミさんが担当、光子さんは峠定食担当。公男さんはおそば茹でと、みそ汁を。のぶじさんは天ぷら。ゆずるさんはホール担当。当初はのんびりの予定で「交代で休憩しよう」と言っていたのに、結局20時まで役割が変わることなく、皆さんみっちりとお仕事・・・おつかれさまでした。
お客さんは、完食された方が多く、昨日と同様「え!ワラビ!?」って驚かれてました。地元の新聞社やテレビも取材に来たりで、このイベントがこの地域でかなり注目されている模様です。

2021222324

お料理教室

今日はドキドキお料理教室の日。毎日、光子さんとコミさんと一緒に「どんなメニューにしようか」と話し合い、試作品を作ったりもした。日本とイギリスでは食材の条件も違うし、水も違うので、なかなか峠村の味を出すのが難しい。光子さんとこみさんは何度も挑戦し、メニューが決まった。もちろん「ワラビ」は外せない。湖水地方には山一面にワラビが生えていて、雑草として皆に嫌がられている。山菜料理は村の人の得意とする料理のひとつである。その他、天ぷらには「タンポポの花」「椿の花」「もみじ」「エルダー(イギリス料理に使われる)」などなど、野に咲く花々を。

午前中は男性陣とともに、お料理教室に参加する地元のシェフ達が山菜採りに。午後から光子さん、コミさんが用意したランチを皆で食べる。お芋のにっころがし、しらあえ、みそ汁、峠ライス、天ぷら、そば、わらびのお浸し、漬け物・・・かなり豪勢なランチ。男性陣が、お箸の持ち方指導、女性陣が料理の仕方を説明。ワラビ料理には皆口を揃えて、「食べれるなんて知らなかった!」とビックリ。実は村の方達は「こんなにワラビがあるのに食べないだなんて、きっと昔の人が試したけど美味しくないと思ったから食べないのかも」と心配していたが、実際はただ知らないだけなのだそうだ。アダムに聞くと、この地方の人達は湖にいる魚を食べられると知ったのもここ最近のことだそうだ。

ランチ後に、カレンと村の人による「お米の炊き方」「ミソの種類」「漬け物の漬けかた」「だしの取り方」の説明があり、その後村の方達による、わらびの灰汁の取り方、天ぷらの作り方の実演。

参加されたシェフの方達はとても満足そうにして帰っていった。今日のお料理教室がイギリスの調理方法とミックスされて、湖水地方に新しい料理が誕生すれば嬉しい。

14121316

雨の中での作業 2日目

今日は皆さん上下雨対策バッチリ。雨は昨日よりか随分ましな霧雨だった。
今日も昨日の続きの棚田風畑作りや森の掃除作業を午前中行った。途中、アダムが公園に残したい木を村の人達が切ってしまったハプニングもあった。これはちゃんと伝えなかった私のミス。ごめんね、アダム。
午後からは、マッシュルームの種付けをした。1メートルくらいに切った丸太にドリルでたくさん穴をあけ、そこにタネをトンカチで叩いて埋め込む。子供の遊びのようで楽しかった。イギリスではその木に雑菌が入らないように、種付けのあとワックスを塗るそうだ。その後は橋作り。ロウソンパークに村の人達とアダムで「峠橋」をかけた。

この日、女性の皆さんはカレンと一緒にリリパットレーンの工場を見学に。工場はかなり田舎にあり、グライスデールから車で1時間半ほどかかる。田舎のグルグル道で皆さん車に酔ってしまったそうだ。リリパットレーンのミニチュアハウスには、電気が着いたり音楽が流れたりするものもある。コミさんがリリパットレーンのカタログを見せてくれた。カタログを見てるだけでも可愛らしさと作りの細かさにため息が出てしまう。光子さんはもう既に村で、峠ミニチュアハウス制作に協力してくれる人達を集めたと教えてくれた。将来峠村の新たな事業になればと思う。

雨の中での作業

今日はロウソンパークでの作業の日。折角いいお天気が続いていたのに、昨日から雨。聞くと4月の湖水地方は雨が多いらしい。普段は霧雨のグライスデールも、今日は本格的に降った。しかしそれでもやるのがイギリス流。森の木を切り、片付けの作業を峠村の男性陣で行った。グライスデールはロウソンパークに棚田風の畑を作ろうと計画している。峠村の男性陣にアドバイスをもらい、ユンボで掘り起こす。湖水地方では、塀、羊の柵など石を重ねて作られている。それはこの地域一帯、掘り起こせばすぐにゴロゴロとたくさんの石が出てくるからという理由。去年の11月に私はこのロウソンパークの石垣作りのお手伝いをした。本当に掘ればすぐに石。その石を使い立体パズルを組み立てるように石を重ねていった。
棚田畑を作ろうとしている場所も、20センチも掘ればゴロゴロの石。山岸前区長さんのアドバイスで、表面の土の部分を別の場所によけておき、石部分を掘って平らにし、平らになったら表面の土を戻すことになった。
13時頃作業が終了。私も含め、皆さん防水のジャンパーなどは持参しなかったため、皆ずぶぬれだった。皆着替えも持ってきていなかったので、アダムのズボンを借りた(私も借りた)皆でチェックのズボンを履き、記念撮影。

光子さん、コミさん、純子さんが用意してくれたランチを食べ、ホテルへ戻った。その後、皆さん明日の外の作業の為にレインコートを買いに行った。
Ame

Dressed up


After the day everyone sat around the fire warming up and talking, Kimio-san commented on a Christopher Dresser teapot on the mantel piece, surprised that I owned a Japanese wedding sake jug. The design was an exact copy of a relatively rare object. I explained it was designed in the 1870’s and was considered a cornerstone in the development of modernism (these teapots fetch in the 200k region at auction – not the one I have it’s a unsigned copy).
Checks_and_tartan

峠ハウスの打ち合わせ

ニナとカレンが峠のお土産を作ろうと計画している「峠ハウス」。
今日は村の皆さんに試作品を見てもらった。かなりカワイイ〜ヽ( ̄▽ ̄)ノ
村の人達からも「わあ可愛い」と声が上がった。リリパットレーンが関わっただけあって、かなり細かいところまで工夫がされている。これから数個作られて、グライスデール、峠村やインターネットで販売していく予定。グライスデールの家デザインも同時に販売される。

House_3House2House3

峠村 イギリス生活2日目

今日は7:30起床で近所を走ってみた。滞在しているコネストンという小さな街は、ホテルが数軒、そしてお土産屋さんが並ぶ観光地。私達はコテージを借りて約1週間の滞在。このコテージの庭はとても綺麗。ジョギングから帰ってきたら、キミオさんとミツ子さんが外に出ていて、庭でゼンマイが生えているのを見つけた。峠村の人達は、イギリスに生えてる草木がとても珍しいらしく「これはなんだろう」といつでもチェック。
朝ご飯の後、アダム達がやってきて皆でウインドミアという街へ観光へ。そこへ行く途中、アダムが山を指差して「ここはワラビが山中生えてるので、取りたかったらドンドンとっていい」と言ったので、ミツ子さんは大喜び。湖水地方ではわらびはどこでも生える雑草として、皆に嫌がられているそう。アダムは運転の途中にフキノトウを見つけたり、ワイルドガーリックと呼ばれる草を見つけてきたり・・・村の人は興味津々で草を眺めていた。
ウインドミアでアダムのオススメ、イギリス名物フィッシュ&チップスを食べた。ここは私が今まで食べた中で一番美味しかった。ミツコさんはおいしいおいしいと食べていたけれど、他の村の人達にはあまり人気がなかった。アダムが「だから外国人は日本食をおいしいと思うんですよ」と冗談を言った。その後、イギリスのお菓子のお店で皆さんお土産を買い、その後教会を見に行った。峠村の皆さんは、どこへ行ってもとにかく生えている草花がなんと呼ばれているのかということが気になるらしい。教会の中よりも庭の草花の話で盛り上がった。

観光が終わり、ロウソンパークへ。ここは今まさにグライスデールが家庭菜園や、石垣、はちみつ作り、盆栽作りなど色々なことに挑戦している公園で、私が半年前に見たときよりも更に綺麗になっていた。アダムが村の人達を案内し説明。村の人達とアダムには言葉の壁があるけれどお互いにかなり植物に興味を持っているので理解し合える何かがあると私は思った(通訳している私は草の名前が日本語でも英語でもほとんどわからなかった・・・)。村の人達が「今の時期、峠村では山菜採りの真っ盛りなんだよ。今年はイギリスに来たからできなくて寂しいなあ」と言われたので、夕食の時間まで、この近所でワラビ取りをすることにした。まだ山の上は寒いので湖の近くで探すのがいいとのこと。皆で山を下り、湖沿いにワラビを探した。村の人はとにかく速い。見つけるのも速ければ、取るのも速い。私がもたもたしてる間に、村の人達は手にいっぱいのワラビを抱えてみせてくれた。アダムの家へ戻り、暖炉の灰を使ってわらびの灰汁抜きをした。村の人達は、初めてのイギリスでも、持ち前の知恵で乗り越えていく。イギリスでは暖炉が家に普通にあるので、灰はどの家庭にでもある。アダムもカレンも灰汁抜きに灰を使うことを初めて知って喜んでいた。

その後バーナビーが組み立てたモンゴリアンテントの中で、皆でディナー。今日は皆さん旅行疲れや時差ぼけで早く切り上げて家に帰って就寝。

The return of the 7 Samurai

6 of the villagers from Toge arrived in Coniston shortly after midnight on Friday night. After 28 hours of travel they were raring to go. Vast amounts of rice appeared from suitcases, scores of pairs of home made slippers, pickles and mountain shoots straight from the toge hills spilled onto the table. The British holiday home was adapted for Japanese use, cups for bowls, the novelty of the handle, actually no batted an eye at not taking off shoes. Karen had prepared a 'comfort' mini meal of rice, miso soup and omlette. On Saturday we are taking them out for fish and chips in Keswick, let the adventure begin.

峠村の皆さんイギリスに到着!?

グライスデール・七人の侍の峠での活動から早9ヶ月。大地の芸術祭は終わったけれど、このプロジェクトはまだ続いている。1ヶ月間の峠での滞在を終える時に、山岸前区長さんと話し合いをし、峠村の数人の方がイギリスのグライスデールを訪れることが決まった。その時から遠く離れているイギリスと日本とでやり取りを重ね、ついにこの日がやってきた。初めての海外旅行の方もいるということだし緊張していらっしゃるだろうと思い、出発3日前に電話を入れてみたところ、かなり皆さんお元気そうで安心した。峠村滞在中でも私よりも2倍以上の年齢の方が、私よりも元気いっぱいだったことをこの電話で思い出した。

ヒースロー空港へお迎えに。飛行機が少し遅れたということで1時間の延滞。ドキドキしたけれど皆さん無事に到着してひと安心。そこからグライスデールにミニバスで向かった。峠村→グライスデールの旅は、合計28時間!!(°口°;) !!飛行機の中では興奮して眠ることが出来なかったそうで、バスの中では皆さん相当お疲れ気味でした。しかし、滞在中にコテージが近づき、アダムをはじめカレン、ニナ、ティムが出迎えると皆さんに元気が戻ってまた一安心。
明日、明後日の2日間はのんびりと観光の予定。

Arrived

A Letter From Toge

The Seven Samurai recently enjoyed a kind of reunion via performance in Liverpool, as well as appearing with Bedwyr as 'rent-a-tudor' backing, I plugged Toge rice as 'the best in the world' during my Tenantspin interview (quite surreal - I stuck to rice and art but Jesse Rae free ranged around bankruptcy, music, banks, slaves, the claymore and back to banks!).
In with the box of shoes, mountain veg. and rice sent over from the village was a letter ... Aiko translated for us and I was delighted to hear that Komi san and the ladies turned our house in to a cafe for the last weeks of the Triennale, apparently enjoying a huge flow through of visitors. I bet they enjoyed the delights of the Toge kitchen more than the rest of the Triennale art fare. This is the first time we have started a project and been almost unable to communicate with the people we've met remotely. Not only do the majority of Toge not have access to the Internet, without having it translated there is little point in us even sending them a long hand letter. It made the box of rice & note that arrived from them pretty exciting.

Nina

Adam1Adam2Aiko_1BenmarcusBunting

Soba Sadness

It's a long time since I've blogged and it's started to feel like a long time since we came back from Japan ... I'm scared though that I have been permanently scarred buy the experience, and since it's unlikely I will be spending a great deal of time in Japan in the near future I'm not sure it's in a good way!

Ordinarily (as I think I mentioned earlier) I am so pleased to be back in Britain that tears prick up in my eyes as we fly in over London. This trip was no exception and as we approached Heathrow I felt exhilarated to see London spreading out below us, familiar landmarks floating past and changing scale as I imagined myself in amongst them at ground level. There was obviously a slight hiccup in home-coming relief as Karen and I tried to negotiate her onward passage to Madchester airport with our 8 bags and the new hand luggage ban, but I perked up no end at Paddington where a full band of 30 odd musicians were playing on the concourse of the train station. 'Now this IS weird' I thought, as I waited to be collected and relaxed back into the warm embrace of UK eccentric extreme-hobby behaviour (by now I'd gathered this wasn't a one off and they play there every Friday).

It started though the next weekend ... we travelled up to Scotland for Jamie and Aiko's wedding party and driving up the A1 took so long that instead of camping somewhere gorgeous on the coast as I'd anticipated, we ended up in Thirsk - not, as advertised, on this occasion beautiful James Herriot country but actually a bog standard UK town symptomatic of all that is depressing at times about Britiain. Now usually I can rise to an odd B&B situation and squeeze enjoyment out of the bad decor and eccentric service. Here though I found myself intensely irritated by the over friendly man running the B&B, despite the many photos of his recently deceased Alsatian, I just felt horror rather than intrigue at his obvious desire to 'share' for any amount of time I'd like to chat. Things got worse when we went in search of food, ordinarily a rural curry - no matter how ropey - is a sure fire way to cheer me (or in fact Karen) up ... and a cheap prawn dhansak has been the saving grace of many a disastrous day's filming/travelling. Not so in Thirsk ... I felt irritated by the people around us and slightly depressed rather than cheered by the food.

As they bought me a wilted rose and dish of After Eights with that white christmas-chocolate mildew look, something in me snapped. I realised that since my return every mediocre dining experience I'd clocked up (and let's face it it quite easy to pack them in here) has been haunted by the vision of the soba noodle trays served at our favorite roadside cafe near Toge. Somehow this tray with a neat basket of noodles, bowl of dipping sauce, walnut and soya snacks and best of all mountain vegetable tempura is all I can now dream about in the way of 'modest' food.

I have tried to recreate this exact meal in my own kitchen with some limited success (the lack of mountain vegetables in Hackney being an obvious problem) but I really think it's made me turn a corner in food appreciation that there maybe no way back from. The accommodation, hospitality and food we experienced in rural Japan may not be fancy but it's I think the best I've ever enjoyed. Thirsk is probably not the only UK small town that won't seem the same again for a long time.

Nina

LandingImage063Image066_1Img_4497_1

Bad Tempurad Young Man

This is the hardest blog of all. I've been trying to write it for two weeks but nothing was coming out. Until last night. I was having a curry-buffer in a village in Aberdeenshire when a long haired man in a denim suit walked in with a walking stick.
Under his arm he had a snooker cue he looked like he was about to tell me something but he just carried on over to his table.
I don't know what he triggered but he was the blogging Syrup 'O Figs I needed. I almost had to write this on a naan.
Japan I think did me a power of good. I have come back fresher and fitter with Ninja bowel mastery. I even made my own bonzai Tempura.
On the plane on the way back I thought about making Giant Nunchucks out of Oversize Pencils and for a change I actually made them. I've made five in fact.(see picture)
There's a Japanese artist on a laptop behind me as I type. Yesterday
while I was configureing her airport connection I asked if she had any nunchuck knowledge. She told me that they were a Chinese weapon and she'd only seen them in the movies which was a little embarassing.
I'm quite glad that the new handluggage restrictions came after our return as carrying my count pollen costume in a clear bar would have been turbo embarassing.
I watched Lost in Translation on a friends futon to see If recognised anyplace. It seems that film just has every obivious Tokyo reference imaginable with Bill Murray and 'Poppet on a Swing'
sidekick. I think Funky Monkey ( Ikebukuro's Mr Saturday Nite) would have been a good inclusion in the film. I seem to remeber drawing a picture of a cat on a napkin for him on the last night - I wonder what he did with it.
I had bought a few of my older relatives a patterned scarf each. One Aunty gave me a pouffee for my house. It was a really light pouffee with an orientalish design on it. It's so light in fact that I can hurl it 20ft plus into the air with one hand. A little as if I was in a martial arts movie set in Snowdonia.
I have been telling everyone about Catworld and as long as they don't read Nina's scathing blog on the place I think they will beleive that tucked away above a department store in Tokyo there is a magical kingdom with a cat that is shaved to look like lion.

presents from japan

Jimmys_favourite_pokemon
Lauries_pokemon_display_box
Shoes_for_the_baby
Strange_jellies_for_shizuka
Suit_for_my_cousins_baby
Jimmy_and_his_pokemon
Bathpowders_for_my_nieces

今日の夜は農舞台でのオープニングパフォーマンス。村の人も何人か来てもらうことになっている。前日の村の前夜祭の時に、まなみちゃん(峠村唯一の小学生)とえっちゃん(隣村の女の子)に「おけさ」という越後地方の踊りを見せてもらった。それを見たニナとキャロンが気に入って、突然「今日、まなみちゃんに踊ってもらいたいんだけど」と言ったので、お昼頃にまなみちゃんの家にお願いしに行くと「行く行く!!楽しそう!」といつも通り元気一杯。と、いうことで家族の人に断って、農舞台に連れて行くことになった。ティムがまなみちゃんの踊りに合う音楽を選ぶ。4拍子であれば踊れるということなので、リズムにのれそうな曲に決まった。今日、私は何にも重要な仕事がないので気楽だった☆カメラマンとまなみちゃんの相手と村の人達に舞台に上がるタイミングを知らせるだけだ。

リハーサルも終わり、だんだんと暗くなってきて、オープニングイベントの始まる時間が近づいてきた。やっぱり気楽とはいえドキドキする。ティムの音楽がジャジャジャーンと鳴り響き、鳥肌が立つ。このティムさん、本当にいいDJです。曲のセレクトといいすごくセンスがいいです。人間もできてるし尊敬します。
アダムのスピーチが始まり、歌や、ダンスなど次々と、そして村の人達が舞台に上がる時間になった。村の人達ははっぴを着てきてくれた。「こういうの着てきた方がいいかなと思って」とゆずるさん。
歌が始まり、やはり甚句は心に響く歌だなと思った。

村の人達が「今日終わったら、皆で一杯飲もうよ。先に村に帰って用意しておくからさ」と言ってくださった。私達はまだごちゃごちゃと用事があったので、1時間ほど遅れで村に帰った。
区長さん達は唐揚げなども用意してくださっていた。グライスデールの皆も揃って乾杯をした。村の人達は「村に活気が出たよ。本当に楽しかった」「帰っちゃうのが寂しい」「29日(池袋)のイベントも楽しみにしてるんだよ」と言ってくださった。最初の頃の村の人達の反応と、今の反応は全然違う。私も頑張って手伝ってよかったなと思った。
12時頃まで飲んだ。前回ベンに飲ませまくったゆずるさんの前に座ってしまったので「やばい」と思ったが、あんまり飲まされずにすんで「ほっ」、明日は東京へ移動の日。

Tokyo for me - Lucienne Cole

Watashi Wa bejetarian desu
It don’t mean a thing. If you are vegetarian and going to Japan be prepared that you may starve. Unless you are with someone who speaks fluent Japanese. You might be able to say the phrase but the concept of being veggie doesn’t really seem to exist.

Toku Hands Could Take Over
Ah The inspiration of Toku Hands. Honest, if they opened a Toku Hands store in London, John Lewis would be out of business for starters. There is a floor for every conceivable anything and more, stuff you’ve no idea what it can possibly be for.
‘Grooming” is a very big deal in Japan. And the weirdest part of the store was all these contraptions for women to loose weight and look slimmer; Many Strange girdle things, eyebrow things, tortuous looking mouth devices and a range of items, with a cute cartoon pig on the front.
called FAT PIG !!!!!!
There also seems to be a fondness for magnets? Hundreds of them all different sizes and shapes and characters, and key chain nik- knack thingys for your mobile, I’m not kidding thousands of collectible weird characters including these odd devilish creatures that look like balls of string?

Panic Attack
Both myself and Bedwyr had similar shopping centre attacks. Though Bed found out that panic attack means a different thing in japan. Apparently some guy had gone ape recently in the aforementioned Tokyu Hands with a machete and killed several people! This is known as a panic attack. And it best not to use these words.
We just both thought we were experiencing earth tremors, but I think it was just jet lag and not enough veggie sushi on my part.


Miscommunication and Kawaii
Everybody thinks I am Kawaii ! (cute) and everybody wants to have their picture taken with Bed. Each time Rumiko introduces us to anyone, she makes Bedwyr stand next to her, and then they laugh. Bed is very tall and Rumiko is a very small. I wonder if this is wearing a trifle thin, but Bedwyr appears to be taking it fairly graciously.

Before we went to Tokyo I had sent emails to make sure there were dancers ready to meet me when I arrived for rehearsals for the performance. The email I received said, yes, there were 30dancers of mixed age range. Great. What I didn’t know, when I turned up to my Monday morning rehearsal was that mixed age range meant between the ages of 6-7. So, what can you do? Try not to look too completely shocked, remember there is a TV crew here watching you all the way. And we have been told to be ultra polite at all times.
The Interviewer asks me, ‘So what is your concept to work with the children of Ikebukuro?’ What can I say, ‘Well there isn’t one. It’s not supposed to be like this’ ?. I explain to Kazuko and Rumiko, that this is not what I was expecting. Are there other classes of more mixed ages I can work with? After some chatting they assure me, this is fine, all sorted, I am to come on Wednesday at 3ock. So I teach the kids, they like the monkey dance best and I get a nice picture of them holding bananas. At the end, while I being interviewed again, all the kids suddenly appear in front of me holding up their mobile phone cameras to take my picture.
Then I make my boo-boo to the camera, when asked what I think of the children of Ikebukuro by saying, ‘ah Kawai’, which Ben and Aiko later tell me actually means, ‘Spooky’, ‘Kawaii’, (pronounced like a long E on the end), means cute.
The second rehearsal I turn up to on Wednesday, I have a room of older ladies.

Rockin all over the World
I meet my friend Mari at Harujuku station. We see all these great kids in their outfits, hanging out on the bridge, A bit like Camden Town, only its clean, there are no pushers or drunks, or stalls all selling the same tat.
The fake tan weirdness and wigs that we’ve seen in other parts of Tokyo is not so apparent here, this is much more costume orientated, The Victorian maid look is very popular, but I like the teenage twins who pose for me to take their picture , dressed identically in more obviously homemade outfits. Much more creative. I suspect they have spent all week, or maybe months, to wear them this Sunday.
We walk on to Yoygi Park, which I keep calling Yogi Bear park, and there they are- In full glory. A bunch of campish, but hard looking guys, dancing away in their black pants and leather, with emormous quiffs. And who told me they didn’t exist any more?? Apparently these guys have been coming to the park every Sunday for thirty years! Mari asks them for me if they would come to my dance performance but they work on Saturdays, and are at the park every Sunday. We get Ken San’s mobile number and I take some photos. I return next Sunday and actually manage to get something that I wanted the whole time. It takes an hour and a half to get in there, and the guys show me the line dance id seen the weekend before, thinking I could pick it up easily and how similar it is to one of my Mod dances. Mari films for me and some smart arse walks right through the middle us. But I think there is enough there on film. Then I have to rush back to Ikebukuro, pick up my costume, shower, eat and start all over again. For the next performance I decide to wear a different dress, and go a bit more all out to try and get people in the audience to dance with us, because we don’t have the villagers today, or he Beatles to stir things on. Its hard, but some guys join in. Japanese audiences are hard, they put up a mask, I am told by Nariko, the dance teacher, But if they are still in their seats….. well your onto a winner. I don’t know if the Juneaus know this when they have to play, headlining the end of the performance. So wee whoop as much as we can. The cans of Kirin help.


Drinking/Karoke/More funky monkey/ Drinking/ More Karoke/
Dancingperf72dpi_1Fruitstwinscopy72dpiMewithrockerscopy72

Dear Samurai - Aiko & boys ...

The news from Toge - It just gets better & better ...

The swallows have left the nest and are making trial flights backwards and forwards in the hallway.

We have been for an Onsen with Komi san, Junko , Kucho san, Izuru san & gang. It was a new Onsen to us (& seems even to them as we got lost!) and the ladies were one side of a Bamboo wall and the lads the other - they had been there for some time when we arrived (drinking) and serenaded us with improvised versions of "Hoi saka hoi" apparently with words pertinent to the Onsen - Komi san sang back. All this after they took us out for dinner too ...

We even had ice cream at the end made from rice - it doesn't get much better as a night out.

We have now made friends with the man who runs the swimming pool and he lets us in after hours when we have the whole place to ourselves, it's a bit like Hollywood in the mountains as Karen keeps her sunglasses on.

Our afternoon of bonding with the village ladies over the 'sheilds of Toge' with some marker pens (& Aiko's powers of persuasion!) has bought about a gentle revolution in house life. The door to the village is now even further open, the hallway is a shop (buy rice and you get cucumbers free), we pass hours engaged in communal craft activities & Junko has practically become a Samurai.

Yesterday we all made those material shoes that the village were selling in Tokyo. Karen and I's initial efforts - a pair of small misshaped child's shoes - bought about much hilarity.

Tim your yellow T shirt has been recycled into shoes.

The only thing to interrupt the idyll is the constant stream of visitors, they come by the coach load now & seem to like the chaos of our shoe making etc. later today we're trying to move into communal model painting. I'm not sure if mould making has been quite 'the start of an incredible journey' (to quote Lilliput) but we do have some fairly credible cottages to decorate.

The Toge rice is walking off the low table.

Even the Triennial drumming event was quite a laugh as we went with the Toge gang. Cha Cha Cha man broke away from our rather sedentary party and practically jogged across the middle of a rice field to join the action when a French Samba band came on.

Kondo bought round a TV but there seems to be no way to tune it to the DVD player.

We play the DVD of the Ikebukuro live feed on a loop on the laptop - much to the hilarity of the village ladies, we've spent a lot of time laughing at the shaman routine but also admiring your legs Marcus in those kitten heels.

Lastly attached the light animal porn sourced for Marcus on one of our futile Tokyo mini-house research slogs.

Must go a second shoe workshop seems to be happening spontaneously and Mitsuko san is dismantling the screens between the two rooms main rooms.

VERY hot here, missing you all ...

N & K


Baby_swallowSausagedogs_1Ladies_2

Zouri workshopo (that’s sandal workshop to you)

Michigo-san and Komi-san return after lunch to resume the rag flipflop sweatshop in our tatami room. Yesterday 5 of us managed to make 4 pairs, none (even our sensai (teacher) Komi-san) coming close to the ‘model pair’ made by local people with special needs.
The day began with the women unpacking bundles of old clothes to tear into strips, and of course within minutes Nina and I were shrieking “You can’t tear up this gorgeous old kimono!”. Komi-san then proceeded to half dress us with these motheaten but gorgeous things, and then insist on carefully folding them up for us to pack and take home. I wonder if us suggesting tearing up some old British clothes would have the same effect on them “No – you can’t possibly tear up those old Marks & Spencer slacks!”
Back to the flipflops: It’s basically made in a very simple way: woven with rag strips (like those nasty English ragrugs) onto looped rope as the sole – the ‘thong’ bit is rice straw in a sewn ‘sausage’ – and their charm lies in the unique patterns in the woven rags, which seem to have a distinctly Japanese feel.
My 1st attempt had everyone in hysterics – it was squint and too narrow to match Nina’s other of the pair – but I live in hope of finding a 8 year old in need of orthaepedic sandals. My 2nd attempt yielded a jaunty, rather nautical-looking pair in shades of black and blue – if Bergerac was a home-made flipflop, he’d be these.
Karen G
NinakomiBergerac_1

Piss-flaps

The drumming soiree is furnished with a row of three Japanese portaloos which I’m forced to use after my can of Kirin. It’s the squat-down variety (still don’t know which is front or back though) and as my piss starts to hit the flap which covers the base of all Japanese toilets, it begins to gape and shut in turns, reminding me of the mouths of the hungry carp in the village ponds.
Karen G
Loo

Cucumberania

Breakfast: Stir-fried cucumbers
Lunch: Cucumbers in spicy miso dressing
Snack: Cucumber lollipop
Dinner: Stuffed cucumber

Contrary to Adam-san’s predictions prior to his leaving, tomatoes have not yet overtaken cucumbers as the Toge glut. We're trying to sell them from the house too - or even give them away free with a packet of Toge rice. Even the locals are finding the magnitude of their harvest difficult to take. Yesterday we asked a neighbour for some aubergines and when she handed them over we found a cucumber hidden in their midst. Neither of us referred to it.
Karen GSign

A night on the tiles

The much-feted drumming evening, a centrepiece of the Triennal happened last night. Most of Toge village was present, pitching their plastic sheet rather far from the action and enjoying it, mildly, as a backdrop to the ceaseless chattering and laughter I have come to find so soothing as a backdrop to life. The action in question was three ‘stages’ at corners of a vast rice paddy outside Matsudai with occasional lanterns and fires along the edges for added oriental glamour. I sat by the venerable Komi-san – who had spent the day teaching us sandalmaking in front of busloads of appreciative Triennal visitors. Her son, Kujo-san (the village chief) had his grandson (who lives elsewhere) with him and there was a special atmosphere amongst the four generations as they doted on the boy. Little Yuki-chan’s presence made me very aware of Toge’s immanent extinction – what would it take to encourage him to move here and raise a family? Will the village still be there once he reaches adulthood anyway? Kujo-san at one point bent down to pick a shoot from one of the rice plants in front of us. Carefully, he peeled back the layers until he found the embryonic head of the rice, still tightly encased in foliage. He looked up to show it to the usually attentive Yuki-chan, and found he had lost interest and was busy destroying a nearby bamboo shoot.
Karen G

Creeping

Despite my awaking at 5.27 am (when the room temperature tips over to sweat-inducing) Junko-san sleeps on in the adjoining room, on her back in all her clothes, arms wrapped about her head, snoring, lights on. After making several thousand plastic flowers by hand for her installation I guess (a) she’s tired and (b) tolerant of discomfort.
Instead of disturbing her, I enjoy an hour perspiring lightly with my iPod, marvelling at the shuffle’s ability to juxtapose and thrill – Marvin Gaye, Arab Strap, Elvis, Go! Team, Lemonheads, Lolleata Holloway. When it’s over, I feel slightly guilty for my hour away from Toge.
Karen G

The tea tree oil don’t work

If you joined the dots of my abundant mosquito bites I think you’d see a map of Hokkaido, or is it the Lake District National Park?
Karen-san

Our rubbish shame ... Nina ... 04/08/06

You would not believe how complicated putting out the rubbish is in Toge. Our first morning home alone in the house has begun with the shameful experience of having to walk back up to the communal rubbish area and ‘re-bag’ our burnable refuse under Komi san’s gentle guidance. At 8.00 am she was not our first caller though, cucumbers started to arrive at 7.15.
Each day you have to take one of 8 different kinds of rubbish or re-cycling to the village bins by 8.30. There is a diary with different colours for each day and unbelievably detailed instructions for each type of packaging, that has to have all labels removed and be washed. I guess considering the amount of packaging they use it’s a good thing, but I couldn’t see it catching on in Hackney.
The source of this morning’s shame was not incorrect rubbish content but the wrong bag – a stray black one - perhaps the correct clear plastic bag with “rubbish” written on the side is the one we inadvertently used to carry our models to a Tokyo meeting … the buyer from Tokyu Hands didn’t seem to mind.

RubbishPaperChart_1

Samurai swim … Nina

Karen and I have just arrived back at the house after picking up our mini car for the last week … downsizing for the final 2 Samurai as Adam, Tim, Jamie and Aiko drive on to Tokyo and no doubt a wrestle with the BA excess luggage limits.
The house feels very calm & quiet now but before they left today things were in pleasant chaos, we all tried to pack as everyone from the village called round and Aiko created a mini whirlwind completing her final translation tasks.
Helped by Aiko and drawing, Karen and I spent an afternoon with the village ladies yesterday in a kind of tea party meets motivational workshop! We drew & spoke about Toge, rice, snow, mountain vegetables, small businesses, a cafe, bringing young people here & the future. It was hard work at points during the three hours & they did seem slightly reluctant to try out the ideas that came up - so this morning I was pleased and surprised when Miyuko san bought round vegetables to sell, with out further persuasion.
The idea is that our house now becomes part exhibition, part café, part social space & part shop for the duration of the triennial, and that for the next week Karen and I encourage this relaxed approach. I hope to learn something about Japanese cooking above and beyond how to work the rice maker.
My sadness at the other Samurai leaving is mixed with excitement about being here on our own for a week. Yesterday it felt as though we made some real progress with some of the village ladies, who up until now have been rather separated from us in a haze of communal cooking. Despite our language problems it seems they are easy to hangout with, Komi san (Kucho san’s mum) is really like Karen’s mum.
Also on the way home from the collecting the car we went to the local swimming pool that Kucho san (village boss-man AKA Kimio san) told us about. After 2 months without a swim it felt like heaven (especially as now it’s stopped raining it’s REALLY hot here) – my life in Toge is now near perfect.

FernsPool_1

Cat World & Edo Wonderland ... Nina

CatCat_kitchen




There never seemed to be any time in Tokyo to blog … not because I was out seeing the sites, far from it, I barely left Ikebukuro (where we were performing) but any time left after researching our houses project was absorbed by preparing for the live events – even though most of our role was documentation.
The two ‘tourist’ trips we did make were interesting, if a little disappointing. Despite having revved myself up for Cat World (at the top of Tokyu Hands) in reality it was rather unremarkable, aside from the eye watering smell inside - which most Japanese visitors seemed to be ignoring. A cross between a local vets waiting room, a cat rescue home and a slightly shonky theme park even my love of cats couldn’t make me into a fan of ‘Nekobukuro’. The Japanese obsession with all things kawaii (cute) just doesn’t go far enough, in my opinion. I wanted the cats to be practically operating the oven in ‘cat kitchen’ or at least wearing outfits, not just lying in baskets in loosely themed areas.

Our other slightly misguided, but highly enjoyable, detour was the very long off-route journey to Edo Wonderland, that we enjoyed on the way back to Toge. Fortunately Jamie had somehow managed to escape the clutches of our Ikebukuro host and his karaoke habit (‘Funky Monkey Baby …’) which the rest of us had encouraged until 4am. Too over tired for an immediate return to the village, Jamie and the on-board ‘Navi’ (computer says yes) took us to Wonderland.
Bearing in mind Karen and I have recently been subject to the rigors of the stringent ‘authenti’ rules of a Kentwell re-creation (hand-sewn costumes, only Tudor food, all conversation conducted in ‘Tudorese’ in the first person etc.) the shameless wigs, nylon ninja and rows of retail outlets that line main street Edo Wonderland were a bit of an eye opener. As Tim commented it was more Isle of White circa 1980 that Japan circa 1700!
We did, however, at last get the chance to try out our costumed 7 Samurai photo opportunity … the hilarity could only have been increased if we’d still had Ben, Marcus and Barney for company … although there wouldn’t have been enough bad wigs to go round. The 2 kimono clad ladies who ran the joint offered a stern service and the minute we’d slipped of the plastic shoes and had our wigs removed (‘don’t touch the hair’) the computer printout in special display frame was in our hands as we were firmly directed towards the exit from Edo Wonderland. The giant Samurai cat put up a good show at the exit though.

GeishaWaving_catsWigKaren_1Edo

Home alone - Karen, 3/8/06

The other 5 samurai have gone back home to England now, leaving us for a final week in our wooden house in Toge, with no translator or housekeeper, but with sore throats, even more cucumbers and a temporary exhibition to look after. It’s not so bad:
We hit the ground running with a ‘ Toge village - Shield of Export’ workshop with the village ladies – a lifesaver for the linguistically challenged c/o a course I had to do recently , run by the UK Department of Trade & Industry in a hotel in the Lake District. With just brown paper and pens we tried to get to the heart of what the village felt they had to offer and what they really wanted. At times the drawing gave way to peals of laughter but our English tea and biscuits were heartily enjoyed and – unexpectedly – we generated an entire wall of fabulous looking drawings for the exhibition we’ve decided to run in the house for this last week.
The idea of a cafe / shop emerged strongly in the workshop so we have encouraged the women to use our house as almost a trial for that. In he planning meeting Kondo, our Triennale contact looked bemused at this but I think he has enough on his plate without trying to suppress the local ladies’ energy for getting rid of their ‘curi’ (cucumbers) glut.
We ourselves might come to regret this if the pile of unsold vegetables in the hallway gets any bigger......

Badger Parade ... Nina

Some nice pics. from our cross-town costume parade, linking the performances in Sunshine Square and Ikebukuro Arts Square.

BenParadeUsZebra

Tokyo, Ikebukuro Preparation … Nina

Adam, the night before Ikebukuro Live, ready to promote his Toge Frog Biscuit innovation, Karen making cucumber sandwiches on the day and the village ladies in a rice labeling frenzy.

AdamSandwishesLadies

portrait of the artist's bedrooms

no one said it would be pretty

Barney_bed

Beds_bed

Marucs_bed

Tim_bed

Nat_bed

Super deluxe

superdeluxe turned out to be a bit of a washout as few people turned up, we had planned to promote the evening at the Pecha Kucha night but that was cancelled at the last minute. The whole thing reminded me of playing in aband, hanging around, playing to a small audience, getting heckled by the audience that we did nt know and getting pissed off. The whole thing ended in a big danceothon as everyone let of steam. Actually all the performances were pretty good and a few of the audience got very into it. Still a bit of a disapointment for everyone, it would have been a bit more energising to have played to a few more people. Marcus_superdeluxe

Toge – Tokyo – Tears ... Nina

Seems from the communal blog entries we were all a bit tired and emotional on leaving Toge. On the way here in the car with Jamie, Aiko and Tim I commented on how grey weather usually makes me feel homesick, but here in Japan I have found something strangely familiar and comforting about it. Once after traveling in Brazil for two weeks, it began to rain for the first time as I was sat in a coach station waiting to make a long journey. I was so over whelmed with homesickness at the sight of rain that I began to sob irrationally. Everyone else in the Toge car thought this was mad, as I’m sure my fellow Brazilian travelers did at the time.

I haven’t to date been homesick here (unusually) but I am quite daunted at the thought of the next two weeks, when Karen and I will return to the village without the rest of the Samurai for company.
More generally on this trip for the first time in my life I have felt a little sad at growing older. Usually I can never understand people who get up tight about birthdays or ‘getting on’, as to date I have enjoyed life more and more as I’ve grown older. Being around Ben, Barney, Jamie and Aiko though I felt a little envious of the 10 years they have on me. Karen and I have only recently ‘found’ ourselves as documentary film makers (of a kind) and whilst I wouldn’t wish away the 10 years we’ve had working as artists I feel quite scared that approaching 40 I might have only just found the thing I could be good at. Being a late-developer is fine but actually not having enough physical energy to carry through what you want to do is not!
Sitting painting with them in Toge, I felt rather envious of their apparent easy conviction with their work, and being with the Juneaus here in Tokyo has made me a little nostalgic for Karen and I’s early collaborative art days … sometimes I wish I could still get worked up about making art in the way I now do about making films.

Lots of our past work has been made during or about journeys and despite being a reluctant traveler I have to acknowledge there is no better way to think about work/life - ideally whilst being driven through an unfamiliar landscape and on a grey day.

TokyoFairground

By the rivers of Babylon

The arrival in Tokyo is brutal we drive down in 2 vans with the warm glow of the send of from the village and a feeling of togetherness and satisfaction that we have started something worthwhile, stood up for what we believe to be right. As we come into Tokyo we are battered by the intensity, the harshness of the built environment. Arriving in an underworld car park and battling with the hotel staff about luggage and internet charges before finding some solace in our rooms on the 24th floor. I have to remind myself that Tokyo is a lovely quiet and gentle city as I look out of the window across the built world, tears gently welling in my eyes.

We meet Nat, Lucienne and Phil in the lobby and find out what’s been going on, they are all really positive but from reading the blog really worried about our time in Toge. Seems like the blog made it sound like hell in fact we are all really elated and excited about our achievements. The others are bemused and suddenly our descriptions of village life sound lame and idiotic, in the face of the harsh reality of urban life.
Nat is convinced we have all been brainwashed, he thinks the 6am start the constant work, the tanoi, have changed us. It’s an interesting idea; the west with all is dysfunctional behaviour, self centred, anti society attitude (Nat is an exemplar of such behaviour) sees Japan as a race of automatons, as if the very idea of co operation and consideration is offensive. Nat is incensed at the idea that we might have a daily meeting at 8am - we compromise on 9am.

Marcus later tells me that on arrival he too looked out of his sealed hotel window at the ravages of the urban world and wept.

No Butai performance

We are all a bit nervous about this, we have decided to be pretty provocative. I have written a fairly pompous speech, that is critical, albeit somewhat shorthand version. Kumagai has come through and is doing his best to help it all work and maybe is actually enjoying it, he has translated the speech verbatim (as far as I know). I am a bit surprised but pleased I have always liked him and was hurt that he had been so unhelpful earlier.
The performance runs pretty well, a few crowd pleasers, Ben’s version of stairway to heaven goes down a storm, the village singers – The Skylarks’ are great as are the two village children who do a sweet dance routine just before I deliver the evil message. The 7 intone behind me and I watch people quickly starting to leave, by the end there is probably less than half the audience left – I feel bad about it - hurting people is never easy but on the other hand I also think I have to say something and I really do think I am doing this for their benefit, I am not saying anything I haven’t said before, people can ignore, see me as an embittered old bastard, but maybe some people will find some value draw some strength. It is hard to break out of the confines of a culture and particularly here I think, were I am told there is little critical analysis, that certainly seems to be the case. After the speech we end up with a version of Ghostbusters which sinks like a lead zepplin, at the last moment Marcus suggests we don't do it, but we do. After the performance no one congratulates us, in fact no one mentions it at all. Later in the evening a few people say it was strange, Kumagai seems pleased though and tells us it was great. Later on we stand next to Kondo the project manager waiting for the car, he still doesn't say anything to us.

The village were massively supportive through the performance helping out and cheering us on, after the event they invite themselves round for drinks bring food and copious beer. There then proceeds to be a bit of a love in, with everyone rising to new heights of cliché in their expressions of love and general wonderfulness, I have to tell them to tone it down, its getting embarrassing. It’s also really sweet and when Cha Cha Cha man comes up and hugs Ben and tells him he loves him it really is a bit much for the old upper lip. (by the way all the village have nick names to help us remember who is who, real names are difficult, so cha cha cha man is named after his interest in dancing, he wears an rather dashing cravat and is around 80 I would guess, though to see him and his wife working in the fields it would be hard to believe, other nicknames include pants man 0 due to our first meeting with him being a long conversation while he was dressed only in white Y fronts, sexy man – he tells us he is most popular with the ladies, pyjama man, and so on)
Download speach_at_no_butai.doc

The Big Shopper


Went to Bic Camera to by a cheap golf club for SuperDeluxe performance. Took a while and almost spent £300 on an expensive one by mistake. One of the best leccy goods shops I've ever been too. Very hot outside so I spent 10 minutes in the fan section before exiting. I was meeting one of the students at 2pm so I took a hot leisurely walk to the old skool. On the way I stopped in a series of strange smelling shops. The first where I bought a Grape Soda (pronounced 'Group Show' ) smelt like bovril and the second where I bought an amazing bag with the statement 'It is great and I want you who are the bag which is easy to use to surely use'. I put my group show in the bag with some prawn cracker and went to the school. The janitor, who'd cut him self shaving, got my xxl slippers from his office when I arrived and. I met Kaori and we sorted out and rehearsed the script for the performance we struggled with the Japanese for flight socks but it was all sorted in the end. I left for the hotel with a small spring in my step. On the way to the hotel I stopped in an Antique shop the smelled so strange I have nothing to compare it to outside of a dream. Bags_o_meaning

PaTsHaRpEsAn - A hiaku by Nat Mellors


Tokyo is Shore-
ditch by Disney, and orange
Pat Sharpes stalk the streets
Patsharpesan

Pictures of Bedwyr

Regency Bee - a critical eye
The actors in Bedwyr's costumes
More men in hats

Regency_beeBeds_actorsNat_bed_hats

Who’s scythe are you on? Bedwyr Williams


My last scythe was made out of a curtain pole and part of a for sale sign. Some students from Dundee said it looked shit so it has been in the boot of my Volvo ever since.
I thought making a new one in Tokyo might be difficult. A visit to ‘Tokyu hands’ solved everything. Using to jumbo length postage tubes and some wood, blue foam and wood and metal effect parcel tapes I managed to make a scythe in a morning using my bed and bedside safe as a make do workstation. The scythe is collapsible and should safely make it through reception without attracting any undue attention. My only worry is that the chamber maid may have seen my messing around with it in my white wig as she passed the door.
Beds_sycthe

Performance Anxiety - Nina

We’re all sitting under the Snow Centre waiting for our ‘performance’ in about an hour – which, it seems, will be the launch of the actual Triennial. Kumagai (from Art Front who are running it) is sitting next to me testing his mic for the ‘eurovision song contest’ style simultaneous translation he’s meant to be doing. It’s hard to tell what he thinks about our line up, despite our definite weirdness he’s maybe getting into the idea in a very low key Japanese way …
No matter how you organize these affairs there always seems to be a lot of sitting about and cable twiddling before hand, interspersed with ear-splitting sounds from the PA. The last hour sends everyone into their own particular ‘auto-performance-paranoia’ behavior pattern. As I blog (!) Tim and Jamie are still tweaking the ultimate audio/visual arrangements; Barney is strumming an impromptu acoustic set, resplendent in Hawaiian shirt and balloon pants, he might be the male rival for Karen in her pre-performance grooming routine. Ben is relaxing after rocking out during rehearsal and Marcus seems to at last be giving us a break from ‘checking the levels’ on his radio mic animal noises, maybe he’s brushing his wig.

Having dreaded the communal living conditions at the house I have been surprised on two counts – one that they were ‘worse’ than I could have imagined (4 rooms, 9 people, sliding thin walls) – but two, that it’s been OK. More than that I’ve actually really enjoyed hanging out with the 7 Samurai, and despite being totally on top of each other it’s been great - and I’m now slightly sad that we’ll all be splitting up for solo rooms in our Tokyo hotel week.
The other surprise has been tonight’s performance. When Karen and I arrived at the start of this week – jet lagged and ‘Tudor tired’ from our recent month long stay in 1578 – Adam’s suggestion that we’d all be performing on stage in one week, all singing, all dancing - filled me with horror. My singing is erratic at best and if you’d told me before I’d got on the plane we’d be doing harmonized backing vocals I’d have probably just